A night of glamour and elegance unfolded on Saturday as around 700 guests gathered at the Jio World Center in Mumbai for a monumental occasion in the fashion world. Indian designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee, famed for his maximalist, opulent approach to Indian fashion, celebrated the 25th anniversary of his eponymous brand with a breathtaking runway show that lived up to its star-studded billing.
The evening began in dramatic fashion as the doors of the venue swung open, setting the stage for an extraordinary display of artistry and craftsmanship. Sabyasachi, whose creations have graced some of the world’s biggest stars—ranging from Bollywood icons like Priyanka Chopra and Deepika Padukone to international superstars such as Oprah Winfrey, Rihanna, and Jennifer Lopez—curated an unforgettable celebration of his legacy.
The spotlight shone first on Deepika Padukone, who opened the show in an exquisite all-white ensemble. She accessorized with statement necklaces, including a striking crucifix from Sabyasachi’s jewelry line. Her presence on the runway was a testament to the designer’s longstanding relationship with Bollywood’s most celebrated actress.
The grand finale saw Padukone return to the runway alongside none other than supermodel Christy Turlington, marking a moment of international glamour for the milestone show. Together, they embodied the global appeal of Sabyasachi’s vision, blending traditional Indian craftsmanship with international high fashion.
With this show, Sabyasachi reaffirmed his position as one of the world’s most influential designers, cementing his legacy in both the Indian and international fashion scenes.
The show comprised “a medley of contrasts,” according to the label, including colors, textures and showcasing exquisite technique and craftsmanship. Dolly Devi
The new collection draws inspiration from iconic women in history, including Frida Kahlo, Madonna and Coco Chanel. Dolly Devi
A close-up shot showing a garment’s rich detail and textures. Dolly Devi
Over 150 looks were presented, including pants and skirts embroidered with gold threads, frilled head gear, stacked jewelry and tops with slogans such as “cat lady,” “table for one,” “where has love gone,” and “all dressed up nowhere to go.” Mukherjee explained in a phone interview that these pieces were intended to be satire on how technology is dehumanizing humans. “We seem to have forgotten how to establish human relationships,” he said.
An eye-catching sweater sporting the text, “All dressed up nowhere to go.” Dolly Devi
There were also trench coats, sweaters, shorts and shirts made in more conventionally western silhouettes. These marked a departure from Mukherjee’s usual festive and bridal wear, which are heavily inclined towards traditional Indian styles, such as saris, ghagra cholis and sherwanis.
But with no shortage of drama, the new collection featured heavily embroidered jackets embellished with semi-precious stones, brocade dresses, ostrich leather jackets and skirts, and blouses with velvet appliqués overlaid with faux fur.
Kolkata roots
Born in Calcutta (now Kolkata), Mukherjee is one the most sought-after Indian designers, both domestically and overseas. He has stores in Mumbai, Delhi and Kolkata, and also opened his first international outpost in New York in 2022. Mukherjee continues to recognize his West Bengal roots, transforming his latest runway into one inspired by his home city, which is renowned for its rich history, art and architecture and deep-seated culture of art and literature appreciation.
Dressed in black, as per the dress code, guests including actors Alia Bhatt and Rani Mukherji and industrialist Kumar Mangalam Birla admired and filmed the colonial pillars, stained glass windows and blue arched doors of an old, reimagined neighborhood of Kolkata.
More than 150 looks were presented against a backdrop inspired by Mukherjee’s home city, Kolkata. Dolly Devi
Mukherjee told CNN that Kolkata was his “ultimate and silent inspiration along with everyday life.” He described it as “a city of patina, where the grandest buildings lie crumbling to the reality of decay, where stories of the rambunctious red-light area of Sonagachi, the sinewy pimps of Kamathipura (and) the effervescence of marigolds in Mallick Ghat co-exist under the hypnotic and ever-watchful eyes of Goddess Kali.”
The show opened with songs in Mukherjee’s mother tongue Bengali, that were composed, written and sung by famous Bengali musicians including Nobel Prize awardee Rabindranath Tagore. (Tagore was the first non-European writer and poet to win the award for literature in 1913.)
“As a Bengali, I’ve had access to this excellent mixing of hedonism with the sophistication of culture. This is the environment I grew up in. It has shaped my consciousness,” Mukherjee said.
Building ‘India’s first global luxury brand’
Looking to the future, Mukherjee said he plans to expand his company’s presence in the US by partnering with major retail outlets and introducing a line of fragrances and beauty products. He also plans to design more ready-to-wear collections and jewelry, while “adapting heritage practices dynamically to remain relevant for contemporary lifestyles,” according to a brand press release.
“We have pressed reset,” he said, of his ambition to expand beyond the bridal wear that he’s become so famous for. “Most of the crafts we (Indians) consume are because of weddings,” he said. (India’s wedding industry is estimated at about $130 billion.) “But that will soon change forever.”
While people have “used weddings to create dominance by spending money,” said Mukherjee, “now young people (would) rather spend money on experiences.”
In a press release, Mukherjee said, “We firmly believe India is not a third-world economy but a first- world civilization. It is the birthplace of luxury, where it has always belonged. Together, we will create India’s first global luxury brand.” Dolly Devi
The brand has grown into “an army” of 3,000 artisans and employees across India, and also works with craftspeople from around the world to bring creations to life. Dolly Devi
Padukone and Turlington pictured during the show’s grand finale. Dolly Devi
Mukherjee, dressed in jeans and a black top with Sabyasachi’s logo featuring a Royal Bengal Tiger, took a closing bow with Padukone and Turlington. A Bengali version of the hymn “We Shall Overcome” played as the crowd gave a standing ovation. Though, this one had different lyrics: “One day the light of the sun, one day the light of our dreams, one day the light of truth shall shine. Deep in our hearts, we hold the belief; the light of the truth will shine.”
It’s a sentiment that perhaps best sums up Mukherjee’s heartfelt approach. “Humanity, after all, is the biggest luxury today,” he said.
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