In a significant move for menswear, the Met Gala will spotlight the evolving narrative of Black tailoring with its upcoming theme. The Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art has unveiled its spring 2025 exhibition, “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style,” celebrating Black dandyism from the 18th century through the Harlem Renaissance and its lasting influence on contemporary luxury fashion.
The annual Met Gala, renowned for its star-studded red carpet interpretations of the exhibition theme, will be helmed by an impressive lineup of co-chairs: actor Colman Domingo, British racing driver Lewis Hamilton, rapper A$AP Rocky, and producer Pharrell Williams. They will collaborate with Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour and honorary co-chair LeBron James to orchestrate this iconic fashion event.
Last year’s Gala explored the themes of decay, beauty, and fragility through the “Garden of Time” theme, aligned with the exhibition “Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion,” which featured garments spanning four centuries. The upcoming gala promises to be a landmark celebration of Black sartorial codes, as menswear continues to gain recognition on both the red carpet and the runway.
Met Gala to Highlight Black Dandyism with Historic Exhibition
The upcoming Met Gala features a stellar lineup of style icons with a rich history at the event. Colman Domingo made headlines last year in a dramatic white cape suit adorned with black Calla lilies, designed by Willy Chavarria. A$AP Rocky, known for his bold fashion choices, turned heads in 2021 with a thrifted quilt from his grandmother. Pharrell Williams, the Men’s creative director at Louis Vuitton—co-sponsoring the exhibition—represents a wave of Black designers whose work is deeply rooted in dandyism, characterized by vibrant collections and daring silhouettes that challenge traditional menswear.
The exhibition, inspired by historian Monica L. Miller’s book, “Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity,” is set to make history as the first at the Met to focus solely on Black design. Miller will also become the Costume Institute’s first Black curator, working alongside curator in charge Andrew Bolton.
Emerging in the 1790s in London and Paris, dandyism is defined by its emphasis on elegance and flamboyant style. It became a form of expression for enslaved men who dressed extravagantly, earning recognition for their “sartorial novelty,” as noted by Miller. The roots of dandyism trace back to African aesthetics, evolving into a global subculture that continually reinvents itself. Bolton emphasizes the vital role of contemporary Black designers in this ongoing revitalization, highlighting their challenge to conventional identity categories.
“At the vanguard of this revitalization is a group of exceptionally talented Black designers who constantly push boundaries,” he stated. “While their styles are both singular and distinctive, they share a reliance on various tropes rooted in the tradition of dandyism, particularly Black dandyism.”
Exhibition on Black Dandyism to Explore Fashion, Race, and Identity
In a recent news release, historian Monica L. Miller hints at an exhibition that will delve into the intricate relationships between fashion, race, identity, and power. The exhibition on Black dandyism is set to illuminate a pivotal narrative of self-determination and dignity for African Americans, a story that continues to evolve in contemporary culture.
Miller emphasizes that the history of Black dandyism showcases a profound transformation: “Black people have transitioned from being enslaved and styled as luxury items—mere symbols of wealth and status—to autonomous, self-fashioning individuals who are global trendsetters.” The exhibition aims to celebrate the aesthetic playfulness inherent in dandyism and explore how sartorial experimentation reflects both assimilation and distinction.
“It will tell a story about self and society,” she notes, highlighting the rich legacy of Black dandyism as not just a fashion statement, but a significant cultural movement that resonates today. Through this lens, the exhibition promises to provide a compelling exploration of the power dynamics at play in the world of fashion and beyond.
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